Saturday, 17 October 2015


zadar i

First, there is the geography. Protected from the wilds of the open ocean by a concertinaed Earth, a Golgi body of long, thin islands that form natural defences, arranged as stepping stones for a giant, should he wish to bound from the city and belly flop into the Adriatic.

Second, there is the city behind, a fusion of Illyrian, Roman, Venetian and modern history; protected by its four guardian saints; a base for countless battles over centuries.

But most of all, there is what lies beneath. The historic city survived, but the promenade fell victim to the ravages of World War II under Italian rule, replaced unceremoniously by blunt concrete. In 2005, this changed with the construction of the Sea Organ, a design of architect Nikola Bašić - beneath your feet pipes of air meet columns of water controlled by the sea, and from holes in the ground an eerie music chimes.

In Zadar, you can hear Nature sing.